MY WALKING WORLD David Preston

The Alpine Pass Route - Part Two - Lauterbrunnen to Montreux 2011

 
   

On the 17/07/11 I set off with a friend of mine David Swainson to complete the second part of the Alpine Pass Route in Switzerland - We used the excellent Cicerone guide - The Alpine Pass Route by Kev Reynolds, a detailed guide packed with useful information. The whole route is 326 km and starts in Sargans in Eastern Switzerland near the Lichtenstein border and finishes at Montreux on the shores of Lake Geneva. The whole route  crosses 16 mountain passes during its journey and has some spectacular scenery along the way. In 2009 we walked from Sargans to Lauterbrunnen which was approximately half the route This year we returned to complete the second half starting in Lauterbrunnen and ending in Montreux.

We flew from Manchester  to Geneva on the 16/07/11 and stayed at a Hotel near the Airport for the night as we arrived on Saturday evening at 2115hrs, too late really to go much further. next morning we caught the train to Lauterbrunnen to begin our walk of nearly 140kms crossing 9 mountain passes with a height gain of over 8000 metres

   
   

The start of the trip at Lauterbrunnen Station

We left Geneva on the 0901 train and arrived in Lauterbrunnen at 1230. It had started raining and we were booked into our Hotel in Murren  for Sunday night, it is a steep climb from Lauterbrunnen through thick forest and we decided to take the cable car up to Grutschalp for the first section and then walk to Murren from there.

 

Weather

Rain most of the day

 

   
On the walk from Grutschalp to Murren the rain was quite heavy and the mist came down
   

 In the evening the weather brightened up a little and we took a walk through the village.

It had stopped raining and we enjoyed some good mountain views

 

   

17/07/11- Distance walked 5 km - 1½ hours -  Height gain 150m

Today's walk was short as we had travelled by train from Geneva so after taking the cable car to Grutschalp we walked along the path to Murren. The rain steadily worsened and visibility was poor

 

Weather - Rain most of the day


   

Monday 18/07/11 - Murren to Griesalp

   

 We awoke to a better day  with some good views and a touch of blue sky

This was the view from our Hotel at breakfast time

 

   

Our Hotel in Murren

   
As we set off the cloud started to form
   
 Looking down on Murren on our way up the mountainside
   
The Rotstock Hut 2039m which we passed on the way to the Hortuli Pass
   
Heading up towards the Hortuli Pass
   
The wild flowers are amazing
   
Looking up towards the Pass, the clouds lifted for a short while to give us a good view of our route
   

On the Sefinenfurke Pass 2612 metres

   
The steps leading down from the pass, very steep and slippy, care was needed.

 As the guidebook reminded us

 " A fall here could have serious consequences "

Needless to say we were very careful here and took our time

 

   
 David Swainson descending the steps carefully

   
Looking back up at the pass we had just crossed

The track slants downhill and was quite slippy

 

   
Heading downhill towards Griesalp
   
 A field full of Alpacas next to our Guesthouse
   
Our accommodation for the night Restaurant Golderi
   
18/07/11- Murren to Griesalp

 Distance walked 16 km - 7 hours -  Height gain 965 metres - Height loss 1204 metres

Left Murren at 0930hrs in dry weather but there were sunny periods and occasional spells of light rain during the day. We took extreme care over the pass and arrived in Griesalp without any accommodation booked. There are only about three places to stay in the village and the Golderli was the best priced and we were certainly made welcome

   

Tuesday 19/07/11 - Griesalp to Kandersteg

   

Outside the Golderli

Ready for the off and its dry at the moment

 

   

The way ahead branches off at Steinenbergh to the right at the bottom of the hill.

In the distance is the pass that we came over the previous day

 

   
Heading across the pastures to join the main path from Griesalp to Kandersteg
   
The rivers and streams are in full flow after all the rain
   
Looking back towards Griesalp
   
Looking back before ascending the Hortuli Pass
   
Keep moving, no hanging about
   
The steps leading up to the Hortuli Pass. Invaluable as the shale on the left is slippy and unstable

   
The Blumlisalphutte above the Pass. Its still a 10 minute climb to it once you reach the pass
   
The narrow Hortuli Pass. There was no-one selling Ice Cream when I climbed up to the Hut.

I didn't really fancy one, it was cold and damp on the Pass with no views so it was a case of get down into the valley as soon as possible

 

   
Looking down into the valley
   
The path followed the hillside above the Oeschinensee
   
We enquired here about a room and were made most welcome in this Hotel in Kandersteg

The Hotel Zur Post is a nice place to stay

 

   
19/07/11 - Griesalp to Kandersteg

 Distance walked 15 km - 9 hours - 16 km - Height gain 1370m - height loss 1602m

We started out from Griesalp in fairly sunny weather but by 1100hrs it had clouded over and by the time we reached the Hortuli Pass it was raining with occasional flurries of snow. Care was needed on the steep descent and by the time we reached Kandersteg it was raining quite hard. We found a room at the Hotel Zur Post which was an excellent place to stay

   

Wednesday 20/07/11-  Kandersteg to Adelboden

   
A few kms outside Adelboden we could see where out route was taking us. It was up onto the ridge on the right and then over the Bunderchrinde Pass. Snow had fallen last night on the mountains and it looked a bit daunting. However we were determined to climb up to the pass, if conditions were bad we could always turn back.
   
A bit closer now and the path climbs up the steep hillside and then goes to the right along pastures at the foot of the rocky and misty rock face

We were heading for the small farm called Alpschele which was below the Pass

   
Looking down from the pastures at the valley below
   

Beautiful wild flowers growing everywhere

   

Cattle grazing amidst the flurries of snow

   

Alpschele

The small farmhouse near the milking sheds for the herd of cattle.

They serve refreshments and we bought 2 mugs of tea 3 CHF each and ate our lunch on the bench against the wall Best mug of tea since I left home..

The temperature here was 2 degrees

   
Higher up towards the Pass

 Nature was giving us some glorious displays of colour

   
My companion Dave Swainson heading up towards the pass. I myself did not feel comfortable on this path. It sloped steeply to the left and higher up there was a sheer drop on the left. I proceeded very carefully as we got higher
   

On the Bunderchrinde Pass 2385m

Adelboden was down to the left and needless to say we descended very slowly and carefully. Once down below the snowline there was no problem.

 

   

Looking down towards Adelboden

   
Looking back up towards the pass. The path can be seen slanting across from the right
   
Lower down we could see how the cloud has cleared from the pass
   
20/07/11 - Kandersteg to Adelboden

Distance walked -16 km - 8½ hours - Height gain 1209 metres - Height loss 1029 metres

A great days walk with some difficult snow covered paths on the Bunderchrinde Pass. On the pass itself there were flurries of snow and drizzle for most of the day. We arrived in Adelboden and went to the Tourist Information to enquire about rooms, they sent us to Bernahof where we were lucky to get a dormitory all to ourselves

   

Thursday 21/07/11 - Adelboden to Lenk

   

The village square in Adelboden

   
Looking back at Bubnderchrinde Pass which we crossed yesterday
   
Not sure what these nets are for but I assume they are to prevent debris being washed onto the road when the river is in flood.
   

Heading up the track

   
A dairy farm on the way up to the Hahnenmoospass
   
This is the Lunch Room on the Hahnenmoospass

I understand its always occupied by the local Model Aero Club

Very interesting, its just a case of trying to find a spare table and sit down and eat your sandwiches surrounded by all these Model Aeroplanes

It was raining heavily outside so it was definitely the best place to sit

   

Looking down on Lenk

   

The village of Lenk

   

The Church in Lenk

   
Hotel Garni Alpina in Lenk

We had a very enjoyable stay here for one night

An excellent place to stay

   
   

21/07/11 - Adelboden to Lenk

 

Distance walked -13km - 5 hours - Height gain 696m - Height loss 888m

 

Today was a short day from Adelboden to Lenk over the Hahnenmoospass and the weather was reasonably dry until we reached the pass where we had lunch, after that the rain came down and became heavy during the afternoon. We sought out the Hotel Garni Alpina which was recommended by the Guide Book. This was an excellent place to stay and definitely the best place we stayed on the walk.

   

Friday 22/07/11 - Lenk to Gsteig

   
As today was a long day with two passes to cross we took the cable car from Lenk to Leiterli. This was a wise decision and we enjoyed a superb walk along the ridge to join up with the Truttlisberg Pass
   
Looking back along the ridge
   
Some good views down the valley from the ridge
   

Cows everywhere

   
Looking down into one of the mini craters which are along the ridge
   
Fours more UK walkers on the ridge who we were to meet again in Montreux
   
Its a stunning ridge to walk along
   
An abundance of wild flowers
   
The Truttlisberg Pass in on the right
   
These white sheets are everywhere and I assume that they are used in cheese making
   
The way ahead towards Lauenen
   

Lauenen

   

In the village of Lauenen

   

There are some beautiful villages in this region

   
Great views up the valley towards Gsteig
   

The local Church in Gsteig

   
23/07/11 - Lenk to Gsteig

Distance walked - 20 km - 8 hours - Height gain 875m - height loss 1267m

As we had two passes to cross today and a 22 km walk we took the cable car from Lenk to Leiterli. This proved to be an excellent idea as we were able to enjoy an excellent walk along the ridge with fine views into the surrounding valleys. After the Truttlisberg Pass 2038m we descended to the village of Lauenen where we stopped for lunch. We then climbed up over the Krinnen Pass 1659m and then down into Gsteig where we booked into the Hotel Sanetsch.

There were showers in the afternoon

   

Saturday 23/07/11 - Gsteig to Col des Mosses

   

We stayed at the Hotel Sanetsch last night

   

Still raining as we set of from Gsteig

   

On the Blattipass 1900m

   
My companion Dave Swainson having his lunch.

Dave carried a small stove and enjoyed hot tea, pasta and soups on the walk.

   

Looking down on the Arnensee

   
All the paths were extremely muddy wherever there were cattle

It made progress difficult and our walking times were frequently in excess of the times stated on the signposts

   

Looking across the Valley

   

Looking north from our route

   

Heading down the track

   

Heading down the hillside

You can see our route on the far side of the valley rising slowly across the mountain side

   
The large cowbells are prizes from some of the local shows

This was a dairy farm at Chersaule

   

Looking across the Valley

   

Flowers everywhere

   
Heading down to Col Des Mosses
   
We stayed at the Hotel Le Relais Alpin

This is the only Hotel open in the village at the moment.

Other hotels are several kms down the road and after a 23km walk we did not feel like going any further.

   
23/07/11 - Gsteig to Col Des Mosses

Distance walked 23km - 8½ hours - Height gained 1050m - height loss 780m

Today was a long walk and we arrived in Col des Mosses to discover there was only one Hotel open in the village. It had rained for most of the morning but brightened up a little in the afternoon. It was a long day made more difficult by the muddy paths which had been churned up by cows grazing on the hillsides


   

Sunday 24/07/11 - Col Des Mosses to Montreux

   
When we awoke in the morning it had snowed on the mountains during the night
   

Looking back from La Lecherette

   
Looking down into one the gorges that feed into the Lac de L'Hongrin
   

Lac de L'Hongrin

   

Hongrin Valley

A simple and charming valley

   
Our way led up the valley side which would eventually lead us to Alpe Chaude
   
Descending to the Alpe Chaude

They seemed to be having some sort of festival here, hence all the cars

   
On the Col de Chaude, the final pass of the walk

Its all downhill from here but Montreux is still 3 hours and 40 mins away and the rain is easing off

   
Looking down from just below the Col de Chaude
   
Looking back up at the Col de Chaude which we had just crossed.
   

Montreux

   

Looking over Montreux

   

Looking back up the Steps

These are called the "Sentier du Telegraphe"

There are hundreds of these steps which lead down the steep hillside and take you into the heart of Montreux

What a beautiful way to enter a city

   

The rear of our Hotel in Montreux

An excellent place to stay

Clean, comfortable and ideally placed, close to the station and lake shore. and very reasonably priced.

I would definitely stay here again

   

Sunset over Lake Geneva

   

Looking across Lake Geneva from Montreux

Looks like plenty of good walking on the far shore

   
APR walkers at the end of the walk

Dave Swainson who completed this walk with me is second from the right

The others are Dave, Graham Peter and Dave who we met on the walk.

   
That's it, the end of our walk

I am finally down on the Lake shore and no more uphill for the time being.

136km of excellent walking

   
   
Summary

Another excellent walking holiday in Switzerland, the weather was not quite as good as previous years but nevertheless we had great time. The Hotels in Geneva, Murren and Montreux were prebooked but all the other accommodation was arranged when we arrived in each village. At the Col Des Mosses the Hotel we stayed at was the only one for several kms so I would advise any doing the trip to be aware of this and prebook this in advance. The maps and directions in the Guidebook were sufficient for our walk although in the case of bad weather and poor visibility a compass and appropriate maps would be necessary. We took maps sourced from the Internet for some of the passes where we thought there may be difficulties but all the paths are well marked with the usual two white stripes and one red one. Signposting on the route was excellent and generally speaking if you know the name of the next pass or village you will have no trouble.

   
Monday 25/07/11

As we were flying home today from Geneva we spent a few hours in the morning having look round Montreux and then caught the train in the afternoon to Geneva airport in time to catch our late afternoon flight back to Manchester


   
   
Kit List 2011 Grams     Grams
Lowe Alpine Walkabout 35 litre Rucksac 1750   Smart Trainers for evening 700
Fleece  625   Phone charger   100
Peter Storm Waterproof Jacket 400   Large drybag 100
Berghaus Paclite Trousers 250   Meindl Boots 1600
3 pairs U/pants 150   Camera & case - Canon A1200 250
3 pairs light socks for evening 150   Survival bag 150
3 T shirts @ 200 gm each 600   First Aid 100
Trek shorts 300   Compass 50g, Petzl headtorch 50g 100
Long sleeve shirt 250   Walking pole 300
M&S short sleeve shirt 175   Guidebook 300
M&S lightweight chinos 350   Maps & docs &passport 200
Rab Black Microfleece 300   Phone   125
North Face Zip off trousers 350   Sunglasses 75
Medium towel 150   Spare glasses 75
Silk liner for sleeping 150   Baseball hat 100
Pillow case 100   Suncream 3x50g 150
Travel plug 50   Toiletries, face soap 50g, toothbrush & paste 50g 100
Spare Walking socks 100   Belt 125
Bridgedale walking socks 100   Notebook & pen 75
Light gloves, buff 100      
         

Costs - Exchange rate 1.26 CHF to the pound CHF £   CHF

Return flight Easyjet Manchester to Geneva   £93.00 Geneva Hotel - Twin room - B+B - Twin room - 67.50
         
Hotel Sport Chalet , Murren -½ board Twin room 70.00   Berghaus Golderli, Griesalp - Twin room - ½ board 98.00
Hotel zur Post, Kandersteg B+B - Twin room 62.00   Bernahof, Adelboden B+B (Dormitory) 47.10
Hotel Garnia Alpina B+B - Twin room 60.00   Hotel Sanetsch, Gsteig B+B Twin room 65.00
Hote Les Relais Alpina B+B- Twin room 75.00   Hotel Wilheim, Geneva B+B Twin room 57.50
         
Cable car - Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalpe 8.40   Cable car - Lenk to Leiterli 25.00
Train ticket Geneva to Lauterbrunne 76.20   Train Ticket Montreux to Geneva Airport 33.00
BMC Trek Insurance   £53.25    
         
My Trek Insurance has risen in two years from £26.50 to £53.25.  I am 68 and thought it might go up a bit but that is a considerable rise.

All the above prices for rooms and tickets are per person

 

 
Prices for evening meals varied from place to place but we paid between 16CHF and 26 CHF for a main meal such as  Pizza, Pasta, Chicken or Rosti   Beer was around 5 or 6 CHF for a ½ litre but could be dearer depending on whether they sold draft beer or not
 
It was quite expensive in Switzerland but this was due to the poor exchange rate that we got to the pound. two years ago we were getting 1.66 CHF to the pound. I used cash and credit/debit cards during the trip but withdrawing money from an ATM looked to be the most cost effective way.

All banks are different but I got a better exchange rate when withdrawing money from a Swiss ATM than when I changed my money at home.

 

Useful Links

SBB: Home SBB - Swiss Railway Information
Switzerland Switzerland Information and maps
   

This is my account of the trip I made with David Swainson of the second part of the Alpine Pass Route - If I can be of any help in answering any questions please e-mail me at davidpreston@mywalkingworld.com

The Guidebook we used was The Alpine Pass Route by Kev Reynolds and published by Cicerone

Many thanks to David Swainson for his company on this trip

 

Return to main page To see the Alpine Pass Route - part one - 2009 click here

 

   

David Preston Copyright 2002 - 2012