The Beginners Guide to The Tour de Mont Blanc by David Preston
This is my trip report for part of the Tour du Mont Blanc walked in July 2003, I had been considering walking the TMB for several years but not having walked seriously in Europe I was apprehensive about my own ability and unsure about whether I was capable of tackling something of this nature on my own. I regard myself as a fairly competent walker in the UK, having completed all the Wainwrights in the Lakes and done extensive walks in the Yorkshire Dales and Snowdonia
As I have now passed my 60th birthday I have become more determined to tackle the things that I was wary of attempting, after all I thought if I don't get a move on I will be to old.
My original plan was to complete the whole walk in one go but I happened to come across a website for a Company who were offering one week holidays completing half the tour with a cable car ride back from Courmayeur in Italy to Chamonix in France. This seemed like a good compromise for I felt I could surely complete six days walking and the thought of the cable car ride appealed to me. I tried to book the holiday but I was told that the trip was not been undertaken due to lack of interest. I was disappointed but thought to myself, why not do it on my own or with a companion. The more I thought about it the more determined I was to tackle it at all costs.
I decided to walk the traditional way - anticlockwise from Les Houches to Courmayeur and then I would be able to take the cable car back to Chamonix. I purchased the excellent Cicerone Guide Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds-a mine of information, it was all laid out there in the book and I reckoned that I could complete the 4 days walks quite easily and I could have a spare day somewhere on the route if I found it difficult. Total distance anticipated 67km
It was at this stage that a friend of mine Chris Ratcliffe agreed to accompany me for part of the way, things were looking up and we took the plunge and booked the flight with Easyjet from Liverpool to Geneva. The transfer to the Chamonix valley was easily arranged with ATS and the flight and transfer confirmation was e-mailed back to me promptly.
Next came the accommodation, the plan was to book the first 2 nights before leaving the UK, that would give us a little surety while we got the hang of things, unfortunately we had booked one of the busiest weekends in the French calendar - it was Bastille Day and everywhere in and around Chamonix seemed to be fully booked, eventually we received a reply from an e-mail confirming that they had a room available in Servoz which was not to far from Chamonix. We booked it quickly and decided not to book the next night but to go and take a chance on further accommodation when we got there. Insurance was arranged and any extra equipment was purchased or borrowed. Parking was arranged for the car at Liverpool Airport and that was it, we were ready for the off.
July 12th 2003 Liverpool - Geneva - Servoz (near Chamonix)
Depart Liverpool 13.20hrs - arrive Servoz 1800hrs - 1 hour time difference
We took off on time from Liverpool and arrived at Geneva full of anticipation, this was my first foreign trip without the backup of a tour rep or organised travel company, after we had collected our baggage we found the Minibus driver and we piled into the transport and sped of through the centre of Geneva, the driver explained that this was not the normal route but he had been delayed on the previous journey by traffic chaos on the motorway , it was Bastille Day he elaborated. After about an hours journey we arrived at Servoz and were driven straight to the front door of the Gite where we were staying.
We were warmly welcomed by the owners and settled in to the comfy room which had 2 bunk beds in, I drew the short straw and took the top bunk. After an excellent meal we went for a walk around the village and located the railway station ready for next mornings departure to Les Houches, the first train was 0856hrs and we timed ourselves on the walk back to the accommodation, it was at least 30 minutes walk. Back at the Gite the evening views towards the Mont Blanc range were magnificent.
Accommodation - Gite Les vergers Bed, breakfast and evening meal - 36 Euros each - (not ensuite) very clean and friendly atmosphere
July 13th - Les Houches to Les Contamines - 16km
Height gain 646m - Height loss 633m - Highest point 1653m
After a brisk walk down to the railway station we boarded the train for the 8km journey to Les Houches, we had a quick look round the village, purchased water and set off at 1000hrs up the track near the Belle Vue cable car, the tarmac road gave way to a forest track with occasional views down the Chamonix valley, the trees gave shade and we were grateful for it, there were quite a few walkers on the track and we had no difficulty finding our way, after two and a half hours we arrived at the Col de Voza which comprised of a Hotel, a train station and a nice cafe where we spent a leisurely hour. We then set off down the valley content that in theory it was all downhill to Les Contamines but there were a few ups and downs passing through some beautiful villages, we eventually arrived at Les Contamines at around 1800hrs. It had been a tiring day and we were glad to arrive at the hotel but pleased that the first day had gone so well, no problem with route finding and plenty of places to stop for refreshment. The Hotel Mont Joly was excellent although we found that it was several kilometres from the centre of the town and by following the TMB along river we had actually overshot the hotel so we had to walk back along the road. The food was good and we indulged in a few beers that night .
Accommodation at Hotel Mont Joly Les Contamines - 43 Euros Bed breakfast and evening meal (shower and washbasin in room - toilet down the corridor)
July 14th - Les Contamines to Les Chapieux - 18km
Height gain 1316m - Height loss 929m - Highest point 2483m
At this point Chris went back to Chamonix to spend a few days there before meeting me in Courmayeur on the other side of Mont Blanc, I phoned ahead to the Refuge De la Nova and was fortunate to secure a bed for the night, feeling pleased with myself about getting somewhere to stay I set off down the valley past the beautiful chapel of Notre-Dame De La Gorge, the weather was excellent with unbroken sunshine and it was important to carry plenty of water, the trail led up Val Montjoie a lovely valley which climbed steadily up to the pass called Col Du Bonhomme 2329 metres, it was hard work but there was no alternative except keep plodding upwards, I was certainly not alone and there were many walkers going both ways, the views were breathtaking, after the Col the trail continues to rise to the Col De La Croix Du Bonhomme 2483 metres where the refuge stands just below the summit, from here you can see down into the valley but not to the actual village of Les Chapieux which was tucked under the hillside out of sight, the path wound down the mountainside and it was over 2 hours later that I strode into the Village. At the Refuge I was offered a twin room to myself for 44 Euros or a place in the dormitory for 27 Euros, these prices were for Bed Breakfast and evening meal, I chose the dormitory but with hindsight I would have been better on my own, I was expecting bunk beds similar to the ones in British Youth Hostels, these were different, it was one long sleeping platform holding 6 people with another 6 on top, it was mixed sex and there were no divisions between the occupants, It was unusual to say the least. The evening meal was included and was excellent but I purposely did not have more than two beers in the evening as I wanted to avoid having to get up in the night to visit the bathroom. the thought of trying to find my way out of a darkened dormitory in the middle of the night was not appealing.
Accommodation in Les Chappieux - Refuge de la Nova - 27 Euros - Bed, breakfast and evening meal
July 15th - Les Chapieux to Refuge Elisabetta - 15km
Height gain 1004m - Height loss 258m - Highest point 2516m
After breakfast I tried to phone ahead to the Elisabetta Refuge to book accommodation for the night but had difficulty using the payphone so I enlisted the help of the owner who kindly phoned ahead and reserved a bed for me. (My mobile phone would not work in this remote valley). I set off around 0800hrs and the trail took me along the tarmac road as far as the farmstead of La Ville Des Glaciers, the track then wound its way up the hillside to the Refuge Des Mottets where there was accommodation, refreshments and water, after a brief stop I continued up the hillside climbing steadily towards the Col De La Seigne(2516m) this was the border between France and Italy, the views were tremendous with snow capped peaks filling the skyline as far as you could see. A wonderful place for a lunch break. Just below the Col on either side were the remnants of the customs posts which I believe were manned until the late seventies. looking ahead were the magnificent Pyramides Calcaires, twin peaks further down the valley
The trail led slowly down from the Col and after about 90mins I arrived at the Refuge Elisabetta which occupies a magnificent position overlooking the glacier. It was only about 1330hrs when I arrived and although I knew I could carry on for a bit longer I realised it would be to far to continue on to Courmayeur, anyway I had my bed booked so I checked in and was allocated a space on the sleeping platform at the top of the building, these platforms are fine if you are in a group with friends but I still found it strange although when you are tired all you are interested in is getting a nights sleep, it was very clean and I was impressed with the facilities. The location was impressive and I spent the remainder of the afternoon sat on the terrace looking up at the jagged peaks all around. The evening meal was served at 1900hrs and afterwards it was pleasant to sit and watch the sun set, occasionally you could hear chunks breaking off the glacier see the ice tumble away down the ravine.
Accommodation at Refuge Elisabetta - Bed, breakfast and evening meal -34Euros - Showers are 2.50 Euros
July 16th - Refuge Elisabetta to Courmayeur - 18km
Height gain 460m - Height loss 1560m - Highest point 2430m
After an early breakfast which was a bit spartan I set off down the valley and after several miles the path left the valley floor and climbed up the mountainside giving excellent views across to the Mont Blanc range on the other side of the valley. The path was easy to follow and on the right I could look up to Mont Favre, the path now levelled out and the walking was enjoyable, after several more hours the waymarked path began to drop down towards refuge at Col Checroui where their was accommodation and refreshments, after a brief stop I set of again after another hour I arrived at a cluster of chalets, cafes and the cable car station, my friend Chris had come up from Courmayeur and was waiting for me at the cafe. After lunch and a good rest we set of down the hillside and reached Courmayeur by mid afternoon. Chris had arranged accommodation so there was nothing further to do except take a shower and go out for a few drinks to celebrate
A twin room (ensuite)at the Hotel Select** for Bed and breakfast was 40 Euros each
July 17th
This was the day for the cable car ride from La Palud near Courmayeur back to Chamonix, a thrilling day with tremendous views across the glacier, - briefly the journey is as follows-
La Palud to Ponte Helbronner - 2 cable cars, you change at Refuge Torino halfway up, here you can have a look round and then catch the next available cable car up. - charge - 25.50 Euros
Ponte Helbronner to Auguille du Midi (small 4 seater cars with excellent visibility all round, the cars are in groups of three and there are probably 5 or 6 groups on the entire circuit, as each group reaches a terminus the cars stop to allow passengers on and off, therefore there are pauses as you travel across the glaciers, this gives excellent opportunities for photography, and providing the weather is good the views are breathtaking, you can watch the climbers walking across the glaciers beneath, at some stages you are only around 100ft up and you can hear them talking and see footprints in the snow, it is amazing to sit there in your cable car so close to exciting world that the average walker would not normally visit
Change at the Auguille du Midi for Chamonix - 2 cable cars to get down but before you go down take time to savour the absolutely spectacular scenery all around, words cannot describe the view. - Go and see it for yourself
Charge for the journey from Ponte Helbronner to Chamonix - 39 Euros
You can stop and enjoy the scenery at any of the cable car stations
The trip from La Palud to Chamonix by Cable car was an unforgettable experience - DO IT
Equipment
Lowe Alpine Rucsac
Brasher Walking Boots (purchased new 1 week before) no breaking in with these
Sprayway Fleece
Zip off walking trousers
Spare pair of shorts
Normal walking trousers for evening wear
Lightweight shoes for evening
3 T shirts
Short sleeved shirt
1 Long sleeved shirt
Sweatshirt
3 pairs of walking socks
3 pairs of lightweight socks for evening
4 pairs underpants
Ron Hill Track suit bottoms (to sleep in)
Sleeping bag liner (silk - very light)
Lightweight waterproof trousers and jacket
Travel towel and toiletries
Compass, whistle, maps and guidebook
Torch, compass and sunglasses
Sun cream
Mobile phone and charger
Binoculars
Camera
Hat and gloves
Food was purchased daily
Water bottle filled each night and topped up during the day at every opportunity
Carry at least 1.5litres
The weight was just over 20lbs without food and water and everything carried was necessary although I did not use the waterproofs,sweatshirt and gloves I would still recommend carrying them. I had excellent weather throughout but when you walk at altitudes of 7000ft you cannot take chances.
Map used
St Gervais - Les Bains - Massis du Mont Blanc ET 1:25000 www.ign.fr
Guidebook
The Tour of Bont Blanc by Kev Reynolds published by Cicerone - www.cicerone.co.uk - Great for all kinds of walking books
My Digital camera broke on the 3rd day which was extremely disappointing after looking forward to this trip for so long and hoping for some fantastic pictures, however when in Courmayeur I bought a disposable camera and the pictures were quite good considering it only cost 7.50 Euros
Click here to see pictures of the walk - TMB photos
I found the walk well within my capabilities although it was very strenuous in parts, I would equate it with being slightly harder than climbing Snowdon every day for 4 days
Next year I hope to return to complete the rest of the tour which will be longer but it should be possible to complete it in a week
Links
Flights cost around £180 return each, only booked 2 weeks before, considerably cheaper if you book early
Parking at Liverpool Airport
Parking for 1 week booked over the Internet was £39.00
Transfer and return from Geneva to Chamonix Valley - excellent service at £50 return
Insurance
British Mountaineering Council
10 day Treking Insurance was £24.00 but you need to be a member(£22.50 per year)
Useful weather check
www.chamonix-weather.com - The weather in the Chamonix area
Chamonix Tourist Office
I hope this summary is of use to other walkers, if I can supply any other information please e-mail me at davidpreston@mywalkingworld.com