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THE WALKERS
HAUTE ROUTE |
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CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT |
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Part
two - La Sage to Zermatt |
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CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT - Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn, the route is over
180 kms and crosses 11 mountain passes and ascends more than 12000 metres in
height. My inspiration was the Cicerone guide THE WALKERS HAUTE ROUTE by Kev
Reynolds. Once you get your hands on one of these little blue guide books
you are hooked. I noticed that a lot of walkers from various nations use it
as reference book, checking their route for the following day against the
relevant map. After my walk last year from Chamonix to La Sage I returned
again in July 2007 to complete the rest of the walk from La Sage to
Zermatt |
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| 20/07/07 - Flight
Liverpool to Geneva, train and bus to La Sage |
25/07/0- Gasenreid to Europa Hut 14km -
1031m ascent |
| 21/07/07 -
La Sage to Cabane de Moiry
10km -
1617m ascent |
26/07/07- Europa Hut to Zermatt
18km - 348m ascent |
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22/07/07 - Cabane de Moiry to Zinal
14km
- 455m ascent |
27/07/07-
Rest day in Zermatt |
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23/07/07 - Zinal to Gruben
14km - 1199m ascent |
28/07/07-
Train to Visp, train to Geneva |
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24/07/07 -Gruben to Gasenreid
20km -1604m ascent |
29/07/07- Flight Geneva
to Liverpool |
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La
Sage to Zermatt - For a more detailed summary including the costs
of my walk please click here |
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Saturday 21/07/07 |
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I stayed at the Hotel Les Hauderes in
Les Hauderes which was in the village square. The bus stop is in front of
the Hotel |
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At the start of the walk in La Sage,
This is where I finished part one of my
walk last year |
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| Petite Dent de
Veisioi on the right with Grand Dent de Veisivi on the left from the
slopes above La Sage |
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| The cross at Le
Tsate overlooking La Sage and Les Hauderes. A good place for a short
rest |
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Looking up towards
the Col du Tsate . Quite big animals all with bells around the neck. I
walked through them with a wary eye but they just ignored me |
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| Further up towards
the Col du Tsate and when I looked back down the cloud was filling the
valley. Thats a different cross |
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| The
Col du Tsate is getting closer |
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| On the Col du Tsate looking down towards
Parking Du Glacier. Once down in the valley the path to the Cabane de
Moiry leads off uphill to the right |
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| A closer view of
the Moiry Icefall, the Cabane De Moiry is on the bluff in the centre of
the picture |
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| The Cabane De Moiry
and the cloud is dropping, in a few hours we had torrential rain and
thunder |
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| I had a single bunk
high of the floor and on the other side of the room there were Communual
bunks top and bottom |
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Summary
Distance 10km - height gain 1617 metres - Started at 1000hrs from La Sage
and after a long uphill walk to the Col du Tsate the path wound steeply down
the hillside to Parking du Glacier where there are refreshments available
and also a bus stop. After a brief stop the path climbs again along the
narrow moraine wall before dropping down and then back up the mountainside
in a series of steep zig zags. The Cabane does not come into view until you
are almost upon it. A very friendly warden and with excellent meals. No
showers unfortunately but it is only for one night. A cold water wash is
very refreshing when you have no alternative |
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Sunday 22/07/07 |
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| A close view of the
Moiry icefall from The Cabane de Moiry. It was overcast when I was
there, I would love to see it in bright sunlight |
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| The Moiry Glacier
from The Cabane des Moiry
There are 3 climbers crossing at the foot of the cliff in the centre of
the picture |
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| The Cabane
Des Moiry in the mist just as I was about to leave |
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On the way down
towards the Barrage des Moiry. You can see the edge of the Glacial
Moraine. It almost looks manmade, its fantastic that nature can leave
it this way after the glacier recedes |
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| Looking back up at
the Cabane des Moiry. If you look closely you can see the zig zags going
up the mountainside |
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| Walkers ahead on
the way up to the Col De Sorebois |
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| The Col De Sorebois
getting quite close |
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| Looking down on
Zinal and it takes a long time to get down there |
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| My Hotel for the night, I was tired and
they had a sign on the pavement stating rooms available. It was
excellent |
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Summary
Distance 14k - height gain 455km - Left Cabane Des Moiry about 0800hrs
and after descending down the mountainside I followed the moraine wall and
then turned right along a path high above the valley, above the Barrage de
Moiry the path ziz zags up the mountainside and I was looking for a side
path off to my left, I missed it and eventually had to get my compass out.
It confirmed that I was heading south so I had to retrace my steps and
eventually found the side path. I then followed this all the way up to the
Col De Sorebois. Once on the top I had my lunch looking down on a vast
network of ski lifts and cable cars and beneath that was my destination
Zinal. It took several hours to get down and I walked wearily into Zinal
looking for somewhere to stay. On the pavement outside the Hotel Pointe De
Zinal I saw a welcoming sign in German " Rooms available" No second thoughts
I just went straight in and within five minutes I was stood in the
shower. Thirty minutes later I was relaxing on the terrace with a pint of
lager. Now thats what I call a good day. 7 hours walk and I can recommend
the Hotel
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Monday
23/07/07 |
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The main street in
Zinal looking south |
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| The track leads up
through the forest above Zinal |
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| Rising up above the
forest and looking south again, Zinal is below |
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| Looking across the
valley to the ski-ing area that I had come down yesterday. The Col De
Sorebois is in the centre of the picture to the right of the small peak
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| Looking north
towards Barneuza Alpage an isolated farm on the hillside |
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Path junction, its
Gruben I want. The weather is looking good at the moment |
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On the Forcletta
2874m and the weather has gone a little dull |
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Lunchtime on the
Forcletta looking east and its clouding over |
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| Looking back up at
the Forcletta from where I had just descended |
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| After descending a
short way I stopped and looked back up, These loose rocks were quite
unstable and care had to be taken to avoid dislodging them as you
followed the path down alongside the rock face |
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A last look up the
mountainside to the Forcletta |
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| The vast array of
flowers on the mountainside never cease to amaze me |
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| Hotel Schwarzhon in
Gruben where I stayed on the Tuesday night |
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| The mattresses on
the floor of the Dortoir in the Hotel Schwarzhorn. Suprisingly
comfortable |
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The little Church
in Gruben |
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Summary
Distance 14km - height gain 1199metres - Left Zinal at 0845hrs and after a
pleasant walk up through the forest the path then contoured along the
mountainside before climbing again through pastureland and then up to some
farm buildings with a large cross nearby. This is Tsahalet 2533m. The path
continues and the rises in a series of zig zags to reach the Forcletta
2874m. I had my lunch here but it was a cold wind and I soon left to descend
down the mountainside into a glen called Bluomatttalli, very stony and
barren but with some amazing wild flowers. It took several hours to get down
into Gruben and to my accomadation at the Hotel Schwarzhorn |
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Tuesday 22/07/07 |
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Hotel Schwarzhorn at the start of the
day which would take me over the Augstbordpass and onward to St Niklaus |
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Setting off from
the Hotel up through the forest |
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| Looking back down
into the valley with Gruben below |
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Behind me is the
valley heading north and the sun is coming out |
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| Higher up the
mountainside looking South |
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The sign on the
Augstbordpasspass 2894m |
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Looking East from
the Augstbordpass |
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Looking back up at
the Augstbordpass |
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Cloud sweeping in
as I descend from Augstbordpass |
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| A glimpse of the
valley far below but it is many hours away |
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The path contours
along the mountainside |
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| Further along the
path heading towards the viewpoint of Twara |
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| In the village of
Jungen lower down the mountainside |
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| Hows that for a
view from your home in Jungen looking down into the valley |
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| A litle restaurant in Jungen with another great view |
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The little Church
in Jungen
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| After desending
down from Jungen into St Niklaus I climbed up the hill on the other side
of the valley on my way to Gasenreid
This is the view back over the
valley with Jungen in the cleared area on the top to the right of
the gully |
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Summary - Distance 20km - Height
gain 1604m - Left the Hotel Schwarzhorn at 0730hrs and walked up through the forest,
once above the tree line it was an enjoyable walk before the final climb up
to the Augstbordpass. I had my lunch on the Col before setting off down the
other side , the path drops down in a series of zig zags before contouring
alon the mountainside to the right, eventually I arrived in the village of
Jungen. A spectacular setting overlooking the valley, it took over 1.5hrs to
get down to St Niklaus where I made the decision to carry on up the valley
side to Gasenreid, I was tired but wanted to be able to set off the next
morning nice and fresh for the high level section to the Europa hut |
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Wednesday
25/07/07 |
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My Hotel in
Gasenreid
Hotel Alpenrosli |
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The
Restaurant in Gasenreid where I had my evening meal. - Excellent |
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| Looking down
towards the main valley from Gasenreid |
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Some of the houses
in the village of Gasenreid |
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A little Chapel on
the outskirts of Gasenreid |
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| Looking north from
the path up through the forest |
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| Zooming in on
Gasenreid below, looking north from the path |
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The path winds its
way along the hillside
Now that I was out
of the forest I could see where I was heading |
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| Looking south from
the path, the Breithorn showing its summit in the distance
You can just see the statue of St
Bernard on the ridge at the very left of the photo |
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The statue of St
Bernard at 2660m |
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| Looking across the
valley at summits in the distance |
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| The path contours
along the mountainside and follows the route of the Europaweg which is a
31km route from Grachen to Zermatt |
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| My first proper
view of the Matterhorn. taken with the zoom on my camera |
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| The Matterhorn
behind me, taken near the statue of St Bernard which stands at 2460m |
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| Looking along the
path I was beginning to wonder how the path would lead across the rock
face. I was apprehensive but once you get up to it. Its not difficult at
all, you just have to take care and watch where you are putting your
feet |
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areas where you are warned to cross the danger quickly and I did as I
was told. Although I saw no
falling stones or rocks these signs were reminder to take care and to
move carefully and quickly |
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| The fantastic path
wound its way around the mountainside |
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A quick photo as I
crossed the danger area |
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| Part of the path is
protected by a fixed rope. I used it as I crossed the areas with a steep
drop Thats
what its there for |
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| Looking back the
way I had come. The path came round the shoulder at the base of the
cliff |
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The Matterhorn
showing again in the distance |
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Signpost showing
40 mins to the Europa Hut |
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The path follows
the contour along the mountainside |
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One of the danger
areas, quite large rocks that have come down the mountainside
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Looking up from the path, there
is a glacier just over the cliff |
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The Europaweg
Grachen to Zermatt |
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A wire rope bridge
over a gorge |
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| "Not Swing" it
says, I crossed this very carefully, the bridge comprised of two wire
ropes with a steel net slung between, the walk boards were then secured
to the netting, very ingenious and no doubt quite safe but I still
crossed slowly |
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A view of the
glacier above |
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| Another view of the
glacier above the path |
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First sight of the
Europa hut |
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| Although I had
phoned through the day before I was told they were full but they would
put me up on a mattress on the floor of the six bedded room. That was my
mattress on the floor by the window.
Quite comfy, there were quite a few
others on the floor downstairs in the restaurant |
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Summary Distance 14km - Height gain 479m.
Left Gasenreid at 0845hrs and and after climbing up through the forest
for 1.5hrs I emerged onto the mountainside to have clear views of the
valley below and the surrounding peaks. This was the Europaweg Path
which starts in Grachen and finishes in Zermatt. It is a truly superb
high level walk along the mountainside with fantastic views, The
distance is around 26 Km and conveniently there is a mountain hut, the
Europa Hut about halfway along. There are many exposed parts with rope
and handrails along as my photos show. However if you take normal
sensible precautions there is nothing to fear. My golden rule when on
the exposed parts was common sense. If you want to admire the view,
don't keep walking, stop and enjoy, no loose bootlaces, proceed
steadily across the rockfall areas, I never saw anything fall but just
be aware. The weather was superb and I arrived at the Europa Hut at
around 1600hrs. After a shower I spent and hour on the terrace
overlooking the valley with a lager and the good company of several
other walkers I had seen in varios places over the last few days. A
truly superb day |
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Thursday
26/07/07 |
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| The view from the
Restaurant in the morning before I left |
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"Cross the danger
distance without stop"
I am getting used
to this now |
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This seems to be a
a warning sign meaning cross at you own risk and you can't sue the
council |
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| Looking back over
the rockfall area, as you can see the distance is not great and
providing you cross sensibly and keep a careful eye open for any stones
coming down |
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Another bridge but
this time more sturdy |
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| The path goes
through a tunnel in the centre of the picture, it is now lit by several
bulbs powered by a solar panel, but take your torch just in case |
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Looking across the
valley to the Randa Rockfall
In 1991 millions of tonnes of rock
slid down the mountainside cutting off the valley |
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Getting closer to
Zermatt |
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A close up of the
Matterhorn |
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| The village of
Taschalp in one of the side valleys, the path goes up to the village
then crosses to the mountainside on the right and then emerges back into
the main valley |
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The clouds on the
Matterhorn are constantly changing |
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Close up of the
Matterhorn |
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| There were
quite a few of these drystone walls which I assume are to channel
any falling rocks into a certain direction. The photo does not give
any indication of scale but the blocks in the main wall are about a
metre long and the wall was about 2 to 3 metres high |
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Walkers ahead
with a good view of the Matterhorn |
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| Some of the
beautiful flowers that are everwhere on the mountainsides - I could
spend a whole holiday in these mountains just looking at these
amazing flowers and the millions of butterflies and insects that are
fluttering about. |
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Just above
Findeln on the way down into Zermatt |
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| The main square in
Zermatt with the station at the far end |
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Summary Distance 19km
- Height gain 348 - Height loss 962 - Left the Europahutt at 0745hrs -
The path wound along the hillside towards Tashalp where I stopped for lunch,
I then continued out of the side valley and back round the mountainside with
Zermatt below, eventually I reached Tuftern, and Sunnega, the path then
wound down the hillside through Findeln and down through the forest into
Winklemartin which is a suberb of Zermatt. I arrived outside the Tourist
Information at 1500hrs. I was given some phone numbersa nd I chose the Hotel
Carina which was an excellent 3* Hotel. After a shower and a rest I went out
for a few lagers to celebrate. I was feeling quite pleased with
myself. At 64 years old I had walked on my own through some fantastic
scenery, met many people of all nationalities, stayed in some great places
and enjoyed myself immensely. The world is certainly your oyster. Everybody
I met was so helpful and I really appreciate their kindness. |
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Friday 27/07/07 - A Day in
Zermatt |
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Looking up at the
Matterhorn from Zermatt |
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The river running
through Zermatt, icy cold from the glacier |
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There are
some lovely Chalets in Zermatt |
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Another view of
the Matterhorn |
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A really unusual
cloud formation above Zermatt |
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The English
Church in Zermatt
I had a look
around the Graveyards of this Church and also the main Zermatt Church, a
very moving experience.
Such a lot of the
headstones describe the deaths on the Matterhorn of many climbers from
England and other European countries over the last hundred years |
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Inside the English
Church |
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One of the
main streets in Zermatt |
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The main square
outside the Railway Station |
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My Hotel in
Zermatt for two nights
I can recommend it, |
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| The electric
vehicles are amazing, here is a bunch of them, all different types,
there are vans, taxis, tippers, flatbeds and little tankers |
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| Book the right
Hotel and they will collect you from the station with this |
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Summary - I stayed at The Hotel Carina on Thursday and Friday
night and took the opportunity to have a good look round the town. Its a
lovely place, very lively with plenty of bars, restaurants and shops. I
visited the Museum where there is a fascinating account of history of
the town and the ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper and his
companions on the 14th July 1865. Well worth a visit. |
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Click here for a more detailed summary together
with costs of the holiday |
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Return
to main page |
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