|
MY
WALKING WORLD
David Preston
Backpacking
across the Knoydart - Inverie to Shiel Bridge
|
|
On the 16/04/08
I travelled up to Scotland to explore part of the Knoydart,
the plan was to walk from Inverie to Shiel Bridge. Photographs
of my walk are below together with details of my route and my
equipment |
|
I had always wanted to
visit the Knoydart Peninsula on the West coast of Scotland, it is
a mountainous area with few inhabitants, very few roads and
stunning scenery. My plan was to walk across the Knoydart using
tracks and paths and walk along the shore of Loch Hourn which has
been described as one of the best coastal walks in Britain. I
wanted to start my walk at the village of Inverie which although
on mainland Britain is cut off from the national road network, you
can only reach it by boat or by a long walk. After a lot of
planning and studying timetables I decided to drive from Macclesfield to Forth William, park at the railway station and
take the train to Mallaig. Then the ferry from Mallaig to Inverie
Travel Summary
Wed 16/04/08
Macclesfield to Fort William
by car (340 miles) left 04.15 - arrived 1115hrs - there is a long
stay customer car park at the station - no charge
Train - Fort William to Mallaig dep
12.12hrs arrive 13.30hrs - Single fare £9.20
Bruce Watts Ferrry - Mallaig to
Inverie dep 14.15 hrs arrive 1500hrs - Single fare £9.00
I stayed the first night (Wed)
at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse on the outskirts of Inverie -
£14.20 per night
Evening meal at the Old Forge
Inn in Inverie
Thursday 17/04/08
Walked from Inverie over Mam
Barrisdale to Barrisdale and then along the Loch shore to Kinloch
Hourn. Left Inverie at 0900hrs in glorious weather and
after lunch on Mam Barisdale I arriver in Barrisdale at
1345hrs, I had originally planned to camp here the first night but
as I had plenty of time I decided to carry on to Kinloch Hourn, an
extra 4 hours and with hindsight I might have been better staying
at Barisdale and continuing to Kinloch Hourn the next day.
However I eventually arriver at Kinloch Hourn at 1800hrs quite
tired and ready for a good rest. - Camp Site fee £1.00 - The camp
site is about ½ mile from the farmhouse where there is a tap ( you
need to boil this water) and a toilet in an outhouse which I used.
I used water from the river the next morning which I boiled
several times
Friday 18/04/08
Set off from Kinloch Hourn at
0900hrs in excellent weather and for the first few miles followed
excellent paths and tracks, however eventually the track peters
out and its a case of finding the best route through the tussock
grass and boulders on the banks of the Allt Coire Mhalagain up
hill to the pass. The route then follows a drystone wall crudely
made from very large boulders along the mountainside before
dropping down over the summit of Meallan Odhar. After a lunch
break I continued down the mountainside and followed the banks of
the Allt a'Choire Chaoil for several miles before heading north
along the banks of Allt Undalain to Shiel Bridge. The path takes
you straight into the campsite which was excellent. Pay at the
garage which also has a shop attached. £5.00 for the night. No
charge for the excellent showers. After
cooking my evening meal I walked up the road to the Kintail Lodge
Hotel for a celebratory drink or two.
Saturday 19/04/08
Caught the 0934hrs bus to Fort
William from the stop just down the road - Single fare £13.20 -
arrived at Fort William, collected my car and after a cup of tea I
set off for home. A superb adventure in glorious weather and I am
looking forward to going back
Kit List
|
Rucksac - Lowe Alpine
Walkabout 35 litre |
Waterproof trousers and
jacket |
|
Tent - Vango TSB Micro 200 - 2
man |
Cagoule, fleece and
microfleece |
|
Thermarest Prolite 3/4
Sleeping mat |
Ron Hill track suit
bottoms, hat and gloves |
|
Pocket rocket stove |
Windproof trousers and one
pair lightweight trousers |
|
Mug, pans knife,fork and
spoon |
Spare shirt,underwear,
spare socks, 2 spare tee shirts |
|
Flask, Sigg bottle, Head
torch |
Soap, towel, tissues,
plasters, sun cream |
|
Camera, binoculars and
Leki pole |
Survival bag |
|
Maps, whistle, compass and
GPS |
Food for three days |
| |
|
|
The total weight was
around 28lbs (12.8kg) and I am sure that this could be
reduced, I took everything I thought I would I would need for
a 2 to 3 day backpack through remote mountainous terrain
on my own. I was prepared for all eventualities - My rucksack
was not really big enough but it made me consider carefully
the equipment I took with me. |
A list of useful
links, maps and websites is at the bottom of the page
|
|
|
|
A view from the train on the way to Mallaig from Fort
William |
 |
| |
|
|
The Ferry from Mallaig to Inverie
|
 |
| |
|
|
Inverie in
the distance |

|
| |
|
|
Approaching
the jetty at Inverie |

|
| |
|
|
Looking
back at the Ferry moored at Inverie while it loaded passengers for the
return trip |

|
| |
|
|
Walking
along the path from the jetty to Inverie |

|
| |
|
|
The lane outside
the Bunkhouse at Inverie |

|
| |
|
| The
start of the path to Kinloch Hourn from Inverie |
 |
| |
|
|
The gate to open country |
 |
| |
|
|
A view towards the sea from the
track |
 |
| |
|
| Looking
back towards Inverie which is the other side of the forest |
 |
| |
|
|
The track
leading up into the mountains with the monument on the left |
 |
| |
|
|
Luinne Ben on the
right in the distance |

|
|
Luinne Ben
from the Loch |

|
| |
|
| Mam
Barisdale is the lowest point on the ridge |
 |
| |
|
|
Looking
back down to Loch |
 |
| |
|
|
Mam Barisdale
looking back |
 |
| |
|
| Looking
east before dropping down into Barisdale |
 |
| |
|
| Barisdale
and Loch Hourn |
 |
| |
|
|
A closer view of Barisdale |
 |
| |
|
|
Outside the bothy at
Barisdale |
 |
| |
|
| The
Barisdale Bothy |
 |
| |
|
|
Looking along the track from Barisdale. Its only like this for a
short way and then it becomes a path meandering along the hillside and
the shore of the Loch |
 |
| |
|
| Looking up the Loch towards Arnisdale on the far shore |
 |
| |
|
|
Looking back along the track
towards Barisdale
|
 |
| |
|
|
A Deer at the
side of the track, they are quite unmoved by your presence if you walk
slowly past |
 |
| |
|
|
Another view up the Loch
|
 |
| |
|
|
Looking back along the Loch to the
west |
 |
| |
|
|
More deer at the side of the track |
 |
| |
|
|
The sign
says it all |
 |
| |
|
|
Another view up
the Loch |
 |
| |
|
|
Looking east
along the Loch towards Kinloch Hourn |
 |
| |
|
|
The track gets
quite close to the Loch shore in a few places
|
 |
| |
|
|
Looking
down on Runival, a deserted building on the Loch shore |
 |
| |
|
| Eventually
you arrive at a tarmac road at Kinloch Horn |
 |
| |
|
| Looking
back to the track I had just come from |
 |
| |
|
|
According to the
sign I had just walked 15 miles from Inverie |
 |
|
|
|
|
The sign at the Camp site |
 |
|
|
|
|
The camp site at Kinloch Hourn |
 |
|
|
|
|
My pitch for the
night |
 |
|
|
|
|
The next day I
set off up the track from Kinloch Hourn heading for Shiel Bridge |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking down and across the Loch
to the track I had walked yesterday |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking down
from the track |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking down on Kinloch Hourn |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking west from the track, the
path I followed yesterday is along the far shore |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking ahead, the track follows
the hillside from the right of the photo |
 |
|
|
|
|
The track heading out into the
wilderness |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking back you can see the path
coming from the right and it curves round halfway up the valley. Thats
Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais at the end of the valley |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking south from the track |
 |
|
|
|
|
The Saddle and the Forcan Ridge |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking up at Sgurr na Sgine |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking up to the Bealach Coire
Mhalagain. It was pathless and it was slow progress through the grass
and the ground was very uneven |
 |
|
|
|
|
The view from Bealach Coire
Mhalagain looking north towards the Five Sisters of Kintail |
 |
|
|
|
|
On the Bealach Coire Mhalagain at
last, I was quite tired when I reached here. You can just see the
drystone wall running along the mountainside on the left. This is the
way down |
 |
|
|
|
|
The path from Bealach Coire
Mhalagain comes down the mountainside behind the drystone wall, deep
snow was lying there and it was easier to walk along the steep slope
as you kept plunging through the crust sometimes up to your thigh |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking back up to the Bealach
Coire Mhalagain |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking down the Allt a Choire
Chaoil from Meallan Odhar with Loch Duich in the distance |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking south towards The Saddle
and the Forcan Ridge |
 |
|
|
|
|
Looking back up Allt a Choire
Chaol. The ridge in the centre in the distance comes down off Mellan
Odhar |
 |
|
|
|
|
Heading down Allt a Choire Chaol,
thats Sgurr na Creige in the centre |
 |
|
|
|
|
The camp site at Shiel Bridge |
 |
|
|
|
|
Walking back from the Kintail
Lodge Hotel in the evening after a few drinks to celebrate the peace
and tranquility was amazing |
 |
|
|
|
|
All packed up and ready to leave |
 |
|
|
|
|
Shiel
Bridge |
 |
| |
|
|
Maps Used |
|
|
Ordnance Survey Explorer 413 and
414 - 1:25000 |
|
Useful Books |
|
North to the Cape by Denis Brook
and Phil Hinchcliffe - published by Cicerone - contains part of the
route from Barrisdale to Shiel Bridge |
|
Back Packers Britain Volume 3 -
Northern Scotland - published by Cicerone - contains various
Backpacking routes including Shiel Bridge to Barrisdale and beyond |
|
Useful Links |
|
|
Knoydart Foundation |
All about the Knoydart |
|
Bruce Watts Sea Cruises |
Ferry Service to Inverie |
|
Old Forge Inn |
Mainland Britains remotest Pub -
Good food as well |
|
Barisdale Website |
Barisdale Estate Website - Plenty
of Information here |
|
Kinloch Hourn Farmhouse |
Kinloch Hourne Farmhouse B&B,
Teas, Parking and Camping |
|
Other Walkers Websites |
|
|
Road to
the Isles - Knoydart |
More about the Knoydart |
|
The Knoydart
Wilderness |
Maps, photos and History |
|
Knoydart |
More about the Knoydart from the
Barber Family |
|
Peter Groves
Knoydart Experience |
Peter Groves in the Knoydart |
| |
|
|
| Return
to Home page |
|
|
Return to Walking Log |
|
| |