The Beginners Guide to The Tour de Mont Blanc by David Preston - Part 2
Summary of the second part of my TMB walk which completed the circuit in July 2004
After last years great walk I was determined to complete the remainder of the TMB in 2004 and began serious planning just after Christmas, I already new the basic things I would have to do and it was just a case of going ahead and booking the flights, transfers and accommodation on the Internet. The basis for my walk was the excellent TMB guide "Tour of Mont Blanc" by Kev Reynolds and published by Cicerone Press.
Last year I walked from Les Houches to Courmayeur which was split up into 4 days walking, this was a good starter for my first Alpine walking experience and details can be found in my TMB summary part 1.
Part 2 was to be slightly longer and was described in the guide as being 7 stages, I booked my flights accordingly and flew out from Liverpool on Sat 17th July, the return flight was arranged for Sunday 25th July, this would give me the 7 days but I hoped to be able to condense the walk into 6 and thereby give myself a spare day for rest somewhere along the route. The weather last year was one week of continuous sunshine and I assumed that was the normal weather pattern apart from the odd cloud or shower, how wrong I was !
The basic plan was fly from Liverpool to Geneva, use the transfer service to take me to Chamonix and then catch the service bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur in Italy, stay Saturday night there and start the walk on the Sunday morning and end up back in Les Houches a week later and then catch the transfer back to Geneva for the flight home. Everything went OK apart from major hiccup of missing the service bus to Courmayeur of which I will give details later
July 17th 2004 Liverpool to Geneva by Easyjet depart 1155hrs and arrive 1450hrs local time. The transfer was by Airport Transfer Service and the driver was waiting when I arrived, unfortunately there were other people coming in on other flights and there was some delay before we set off for Chamonix, this and several other delays contributed to me arriving about 5 minutes late for the last bus from Chamonix to Courmayeur at 1745hrs. despite our driver hailing the bus on the outskirts of the bus station he refused to allow me to get on, no leeway I am afraid once he had left the station that was it. I pondered for a bit as to what to do and was tempted to find somewhere to stay for the night and go through the tunnel to Mont Blanc in the morning, the first bus was 0900hrs and with hindsight that is what I should have done as I would only have been 1 hour late starting my walk, however after a short deliberation I asked a taxi driver the cost of taking me to Courmayeur via the Mont Blanc tunnel - 85 euros was a lot of money and at first I declined and had a short wander round with a view to finding a room for the night, however I was disappointed at the disruption to my long planned arrangements and was determined to get myself back on track. I again approached the taxi driver and within minutes I was speeding through the 11km tunnel, within 30 minutes of leaving Chamonix I was in my hotel room in Courmayeur and getting ready to go out for a bite to eat and a celebratory pint of lager. This was the first time I had been abroad alone and I was feeling a little better now that my plans were now back on track. Everything seemed OK for the start in the morning of my great adventure.
July 18th 2004 Cormayeur to Refuge Bonatti - 16km - 7 hrs - height gain 1597m height loss 698m highest point 2584m
I started in the morning at 0900hrs and after a steady climb out of the town the path led steeply up through the forest to the Refuge Bertone which occupied a splendid position on the hillside overlooking Courmayeur, after this the path continued upwards and then along the ridge of Mont de la Saxe, the weather was clear with sunny periods and at the end of the ridge the path dropped down over the Col Sapin into a large valley and then rose again on the far side to another pass called Pas Entre-Deux-Sauts, it then curved northwards and I could then see my objective - Refuge Bonatti, when I was about 15 minutes away it started to rain and it was all waterproofs on as fast as possible, however when I reached the refuge at 1600hrs which was extremely well appointed I was able to dry the waterproofs, have a shower and relax after my first day. The evening meal was excellent and the charge was 38 euros. Website www.rifugiobonatti.it
July 19th 2004 Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly - 20 km 6.5 hrs height gain 895m - height loss 1410m - highest point 2573m
A cloudy start to the morning when I left the Refugio Bonatti but during the walk up the valley towards the Rifugio Elena the weather brightened up, I stopped for a coffee at the refuge before climbing up to the Grand Col Ferret at 2537m, the walk down the other side was very pleasant with an ideal gradient, the sun came out and I thoroughly enjoyed the walk. I had booked a single room at the Hotel Eidelweiss and this was excellent. It cost 83 euros but it was half board, ensuite and I had a TV. A nice little village and it had a walking shop so I had a good browse at the walking gear
July 20th 2004 La Fouly to Champex - 15km 4.5hrs height gain 420m - height loss 565m - highest point 1466m
A dry start but by noon the rain set in and it was waterproofs on for the rest of the afternoon, most of the walk was through forests so the rain and mists did not obscure any views. On arrival at Champex the sun came out, the village was a delightful place with a nice lake in the centre. I had booked a bed at the Pension En Plein Air. An excellent place to stay with a good atmosphere. A bed in the dortoir with half board was 44 euros ( 61 Swiss francs)
July 21st 2004 Champex to Forclaz via the Fenetre d' Arpette 14 km 6.5 hrs - height gain 1199m - height loss 1139m highest point 2665m
The weather today was excellent and I set off up the Val d' Arpette under sunny skies with magnificent views ahead, the path climbed the valley steadily except for the last kilometre when it became quite steep, as I climbed towards the pass there was caution needed as occasional stones were dislodged by walkers higher up, a cry would go out and you would have to watch the stones or boulders rolling down the hillside, all the time being ready to take evasive action, on the whole I felt quite safe but you needed to be alert and at the same time making sure you did not dislodge anything that might roll down on anyone below. The view from the pass was breathtaking and I was so glad that I took this route, there is an alternative way via the Alp Bovine that is slightly longer, however if the weather is right I would choose the Fenetre d' Arpette. After a leisurely lunch soaking up the view I followed the path down Chalet du Glacier where refreshments are available, after this it is a level walk along the Bisse du Trient for about 45 mins to the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz. - I had booked a single room ensuite with half board 99 Swiss francs - nicely situated at the top of the pass.
July 22nd 2004 Col du la Forclaz to La Flegere 22 km - 9.5hrs - height gain 1802m - height loss 435m - highest point 2201m
This was really 2 sections joined together but I was trying to avoid having a short day on the 23rd so I did the 2 sections together and this enabled me to have a rest day on the Saturday in Chamonix, the weather was again excellent and the track up to the Col de Balme was a nice gradient, I stopped for bite to eat at the refuge at the top of the pass and then pressed on along the ridge to Aig des Possettes and then onto the village of Tre Le Champs. This should have been the end of the day and the time was 1330hrs, I stopped for a coffee and then set off up the hillside for La Flegere, I was already feeling tired and began to wonder whether I was doing then right thing, after a couple of hours and after many rest breaks I came to the laddered section that I had read a lot about, this is where ladders and handrails have been screwed into the rock face for safety reasons. I was apprehensive about this section but did not find it too difficult, in all there are about 4 ladders of at least 20 rungs with dozens of other small ladders of between 5 and 6 rungs, together with plenty of steel handrails, there is absolutely nothing vertical and all the ladders are at an angle of a steep staircase. There is an alternative route around the rear of the mountain but most people will have no difficulty with this. Once at the top There is a large cairn and then its a slightly undulating walk to the Refuge La Flegere. By the time I reached the refuge I was well and truly exhausted and as I had not booked a bed I was pleased to find they had plenty of room. Half board was 37.5 euros and what a view after the evening meal. Most of the guests just sat outside on deck chairs and stared in awe at the magnificent view of Mont Blanc across the valley
July 23rd 2004 La Flegere to Les Houches 17km - 7 hrs - height gain 772m height loss 1546m - highest point 2526m
The last day started well with good weather and the path went along the undulating ridge with the highest point being the summit Le Brevent, as I had a break on the summit the weather began to deteriorate with storm clouds coming in from the north, the temperature dropped and the rain began, it soon became heavy, it lasted nearly several hours and myself and other walkers descending towards Les Houches were all wearing waterproofs but there were many walkers still coming up the track wearing light summer clothes in the pouring rain. Over four hours after leaving La Flegere I reached the Refuge De Bellachat but any hope of getting inside to shelter were soon abandoned, the place was packed to the doors with walkers. I carried on down the hillside and within 30 minutes the rain stopped and the sun came out. What a difference,
Several hours later I emerged from the forest onto the road near to Les Houches railway station, the train to Chamonix was due in just over 30 minutes and once on board it did not take long to reach the town. I stepped off the train and walked past the spot where I had stood just over a week ago and thought a lots happened in the last eight days. Not bad for an inexperienced 61 year old.
On my way to the tourist information centre I passed the hotel that I stayed in last year and on the spur of the moment I walked in and enquired about a room, within five minutes I was sat on the balcony of my room looking down at the hustle and bustle of Chamonix. What a lovely town !
July 24th 2004 Rest day in Chamonix
Had a lie in till 0830hrs and then spent a pleasant day wandering round the shops and looking at all the climbing and walking gear, for my evening meal I had a Mc Donalds, something I rarely do in England but it made a change from the varied food that I had enjoyed in all the hotels and Refuges during the last week. After that I had a pint of beer and an early night.
July 25th 2004
Collected promptly by ATS at 0735hrs from outside the railway station and at 1045hrs I was taking off from Geneva on my way to Liverpool, the end of a wonderful holiday. Now what about next year ?
Equipment
Lowe Alpine Rucsac
Brasher Walking Boots
Sprayway Fleece
Zip off walking trousers
Spare pair of shorts
Normal walking trousers for evening wear
Lightweight shoes for evening
3 T shirts
Short sleeved shirt
1 Long sleeved shirt
Sweatshirt
3 pairs of walking socks
3 pairs of lightweight socks for evening
4 pairs underpants
Ron Hill Track suit bottoms (to sleep in)
Sleeping bag liner (silk - very light)
Lightweight waterproof trousers and jacket
Travel towel and toiletries
Compass, whistle, maps and guidebook
Torch, compass and sunglasses
Sun cream
Mobile phone and charger
Binoculars
Camera
Hat and gloves
Food was purchased daily
Platypus 2 litre water carrier
Soap powder for washing clothes
The weight was just over 20lbs without food and water and everything carried was necessary although I did not use the, sweatshirt and gloves I would still recommend carrying them. I had mixed weather throughout the week.
Maps used
St Gervais - Les Bains - Massis du Mont Blanc 3531ET 1:25000 and Chamonix Massis du Mont Blanc 3630 OT www.ign.fr
Guidebook
The Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds published by Cicerone - This guidebook was indispensable and although you should always carry the appropriate map I could have done the walk just using the guidebook however the maps cover the surrounding area with all the adjoining footpaths www.cicerone.co.uk - Great for all kinds of walking books
Links
Flights cost around £180 return, only booked 2 weeks before, considerably cheaper if you book early
Transfer and return from Geneva to Chamonix Valley - excellent service at just over £50 return
Insurance
British Mountaineering Council
10 day Treking Insurance was £24.00 but you need to be a member(£22.50 per year)
Useful weather check
www.chamonix-weather.com - The weather in the Chamonix area
Chamonix Tourist Office
I hope this summary is of use to other walkers, if I can supply any other information please e-mail me at davidpreston@mywalkingworld.com